Most plug-in fog machines are rated somewhere between 400 and 1,500 watts. They only pull that much while the heater is warming up or reheating, so a night of fog usually costs well under a dollar in electricity.
Here’s how to work out the number for your own machine, and how to power it safely.
How Much Electricity Does a Fog Machine Use?
The wattage on the label or in the manual is the most power the machine draws. Small party units are often 400 to 700 watts, and bigger stage machines run 1,000 to 1,500 watts or more (see what size fog machine do I need).
Almost all of that power goes to the heater, which turns fog fluid into vapor. The small pump that pushes the fluid uses very little.
Warm-Up vs. Fogging
When you first switch a machine on, the heater runs flat out until it reaches temperature. That usually takes a few minutes; check your manual for your model’s warm-up time.
After that, the heater cycles on and off to stay hot, and it works harder while you’re fogging because the fluid cools it. Your average draw over a night is lower than the rating, but using the full rating gives you a safe worst-case number.
How to Calculate the Cost
Use this formula: watts × hours ÷ 1,000 = kilowatt-hours (kWh). Then multiply the kWh by the price per kWh on your electric bill.
For example, a 1,000-watt machine left on for 4 hours uses at most 4 kWh. At 16 cents per kWh, that’s 64 cents for the night, and in practice less because the heater cycles.
| Machine rating | Max use per hour | Max use over 4 hours |
|---|---|---|
| 400 W | 0.4 kWh | 1.6 kWh |
| 700 W | 0.7 kWh | 2.8 kWh |
| 1,000 W | 1.0 kWh | 4.0 kWh |
| 1,500 W | 1.5 kWh | 6.0 kWh |
Fog fluid usually costs more than the electricity. To save on both, fog in short bursts with a timer or remote, switch the machine off when you’re done, and don’t run more machines than the space needs (see how many fog machines do I need).
Circuits and Extension Cords
To find the current, divide watts by your outlet voltage. On a standard 120-volt U.S. outlet, a 1,000-watt machine draws about 8.3 amps and a 1,500-watt machine about 12.5 amps.
Many household circuits are 15 amps, and a common rule is to keep a load that runs for hours at about 80 percent of that, or 12 amps. One big fog machine can use most of a circuit by itself, so don’t share it with space heaters, hair dryers or other high-wattage gear.
If you use an extension cord, check the amp or watt rating printed on it and pick one rated above the machine’s draw. Thin, light-duty cords can overheat; a heavy-duty 14- or 12-gauge cord is the usual choice for bigger machines.
Outdoors, use an outdoor-rated cord plugged into a GFCI outlet, and keep the connections off wet ground. Unplug the machine and let it cool before you refill, move or clean it.
Running a Fog Machine on a Generator or Power Station
A generator or battery power station has to supply the machine’s full rated wattage, not just the average. Pick one whose continuous (running) output is comfortably above the machine’s rating.
For a battery station, divide its watt-hours by the machine’s wattage for a rough worst-case runtime. A 1,000 Wh station running a 700-watt machine flat out would last roughly an hour, and heater cycling stretches that a bit.
Run fuel-powered generators outdoors only, far from doors and windows. The CPSC warns that generator exhaust contains carbon monoxide, which can kill in minutes.
Fog Machines Use Power, They Don’t Make It
A fog machine is a power user, not a power source. Its nozzle puts out hot vapor, not electricity, so never try to wire other devices to it.
You may have read about fog harvesting, but that’s a different thing. Mesh nets catch droplets from coastal fog to supply water in dry places; it doesn’t generate electricity.
Please be careful and use at your own risk
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